Eight dollars. Feeds four. Under ten minutes.

One head of green cabbage, cut through the core into inch-thick slabs so they hold together. Hot skillet, thin film of oil, slabs down, and then you don't touch them for four minutes. That's the whole discipline. Flip, knob of butter, two smashed garlic cloves, splash of soy, crack of pepper, spoon it over, lid on for three. Rice under it or torn bread to drag through the pan.

Char it hard. Black edges are the entire point.

Cabbage has been the vegetable of every hard winter in recorded history and it has never once been fashionable, which is exactly why it's still ninety cents a pound.

What does your kitchen do when the week gets thin?

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